Walk the lower shrine early, choose how far to climb, then give the afternoon to sake history or Jōnangū’s gardens.
The story of this neighbourhood
Fushimi Inari is the great draw, but southern Kyoto is much more varied than its most famous shrine suggests. Port history, brewing, industry, railways and residential neighbourhoods belong to this part of the city too. Choose a specific route rather than treating “the south” as one place.
The concentration of celebrated temple walks in the eastern hills can make southern Kyoto seem less visitor-oriented. That is a question of how the city developed and how tourism is presented, not an absence of history: Fushimi was an important river port on the Kyoto–Osaka route and remains a major brewing district, while areas around the railway grew around transport, industry and everyday housing.
Southern Kyoto also contains neighbourhoods whose histories include insecure housing, economic hardship and discrimination. Higashikujō, for example, has a long-standing Korean community and its own community-led cultural life. These are specific histories, not a description of every neighbourhood south of the station. They deserve attention on their own terms, without reducing residents to a backdrop for sightseeing.
For a first visit, combine the sacred landscape of Inari with a meal nearby, then use the afternoon for the brewing district around Chūshojima and the Gekkeikan Ōkura Sake Museum. Jōnangū makes an alternative afternoon, particularly when its gardens are the reason for going. Leave the brewery district its own half day if you plan the full Inari mountain circuit.